Day Fifteen ... oh Machu Picchu

Today is one of those days that you dream about ... maybe one day I might get to see Machu Picchu in person. I am GIDDY with excitement.

We were up early, before our 5.30 alarm, as we both had a bit of a restless night. But adventure doesn't care if you sleep or not, so we got up, got ready and headed off to breakfast.

Breakfast done ... neither of us eating much given the early hour, we checked out and waited in the hotel lobby for our transfer guide to arrive.

Jacqueline (great name hey!) and our driver Moises arrived promptly, assisted us with the last details about our luggage transfer and then we were off. For today's adventure we were only allowed one carry on bag each ... and our suitcases were transferred on to our hotel in Cusco where we will be reunited with them tomorrow.

We were then on our way to Ollantaytambo, about 45 minutes drive through the Sacred Valley to the train station where we would catch the train to Machu Picchu. The drive was great, driving along through small towns, on rough roads with lots of puddles due to rain last night. So much to see out the windows.

We arrived at Ollantaytambo at about 7.30 and Jacqueline talked us through the steps we needed to navigate to board our train. Because of security, guides are not allowed on the platform, only those with tickets. However, her instructions were perfectly clear and we were soon standing on the platform waiting for our train to Machu Picchu.

We were booked on the Vistadome which only had two carriages. Once they put up the carriage numbers the jockeying for position to get on board first began, which we found fascinating given we all had assigned seats. We waited for the fussing to end, boarded last and discovered we had seats 1 and 2 at the very front of the carriage next to the driver’s compartment ... with a beautiful big front facing window! Everyone else was very jealous.

The train was amazing! And a little surreal! The views from the front window was panoramic. For an hour and a half we sat watching the world go by ... glacier topped mountains, mountains shrouded in fog, the rushing river beside us, small townships that we passed through. Absolutely incredible.

We arrived in Aguas Calientes/Machu Picchu Pueblo where we were met by a SATO/Condor Travel representative. He told us we would be met by our guide in the lobby of our hotel and then Enzo from our hotel walked us the 110 metres to our hotel where we completed the check in process, repacked our bags to offload things we didn't need for the tour of the archeological site and then relaxed to wait.

Anibel our guide arrived just on 10.00, greeted us warmly, and did a quick check on how acclimatised we were to the altitude. He explained what would happen ... walk to the shuttle bus, drive up the mountain, tour the site with Anibel as our guide, stop and have lunch at the buffet restaurant before catching the bus back to the township of Aguas Calientes.

And then we were off. The road to site of the ancient ruins is a 9km (roughly half an hour) drive up the side of the mountain and it involves 14 switch backs. You go from an altitude of 2040 metres to 2430 metres. It is a hairy ride ... but the drivers do it every day with shuttles running every 5-10 minutes depending on the time of day.

We reached the starting point of the trail and waited for the staff to allow us to enter. All entry to the ruins is controlled ... from the number of tickets sold per day and per hour, to only being allowed in when your allocated time occurs. This ensures the site is not overrun and that people have time to enjoy the ruins without the crush.

And then we were in. We were on Circuit 2B ... the best trail according to Anibel. We began by slowly climbing up the terraces of the outer section of the site. Along the way we stopped to catch our breath, take photos and to allow Anibel to tell us all about this amazing site.

Our first glimpse had tears glistening my eyes! I was there, I was literally standing there ... looking at something I had only seen in pictures. We were both awestruck.

The entire vista is incredible, but when Anibel tells you the history ... it is even more amazing. Built in the 1500s by the Incan Empire, a place where they would be safe, have water, have access to agricultural land, have a source of granite to make their village. It is estimated that 500 people lived in that village, and that when the Spanish arrived in Cusco in 1534, the Incans abandoned it so that it wouldn't be found and destroyed.

We climbed to the top and then began our descent into the actual ruins. Anibel walked us around the trail (one way ... so no doubling back ... well except for those who think the signs don't apply to them) ... stopping to explain things along the way. We learnt about the mining process for the granite, the agriculture, the religion (no gods ... just an awareness of the world around them and appreciating all that it provides), the houses, workshops and schools.

It was fascinating. The Inca empire was very short but they left an indelible mark on the culture and history of Latin America. Machu Picchu is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and was declared so in 1983. No alterations can be made to the site ... and so it remains for those who wish to experience it.

We finished our walk by passing through the agricultural terraces ... stopping to say hello to the llamas that nibbled on the grass.

We exited the official site and Anibel walked us to Tinkuy ... the buffet restaurant where we would enjoy lunch. Once he had registered our attendance we said a fond goodbye as he then headed off to collect another group for their afternoon tour. He has the best office to work in!

Following a delicious lunch ... the Peruvian Beef Stew being the absolute stand out, we availed ourselves of the banos and then headed out into the light rain to catch the shuttle back to Aguas Calientes. As we walked to the back of the line we were filled with absolute joy to come across our dear Emily and James!

And so, we jumped on the shuttle and headed down and then stood on a street corner to chat and catch up on the last few days. They headed on their way to see if they could get tickets for Circuit 2 for tomorrow as they had only been to Circuit 1 which climbs a mountain and overlooks the ruins but doesn't go into them. We then headed to our hotel to check in and have a rest.

Ian here … After a relaxing scroll of Facebook (J) and the mandatory 'old man' nap (I), about 4.30 we thought we'd tackle the light rain and explore Aguas Calientes (or Machu Picchu Pueblo (town)). Once again the rain gods were on our side and the only purpose the ponchos served was to sweat out a few litres of body fluids.

The town is not large - the central area maybe 500m by 400m with Rio Alcamayo running through it to join the white water of the Urubamba. It serves three basic purposes - eating, shopping and sleeping.

We must have passed 150+ eateries in our 1 hour walk, some high end, many with local Peruvian fare (rice, potatoes, chicken, pork, guinea pig, alpaca), lots of pizzas and burgers, patisseries and ice creameries.

Souvenir shops intersperse the food places but are concentrated in the densely populated market area near the train station. Every knick knack you can imagine with a llama on it.

The hostels and hotels are generally 1 or 2 alleyways back from the main roads (of which there are 3).

Highlights from our wander.

1. The lovely and lively town square. Music pumping late into the evening.

2. The Church of the Virgin del Carmen. A good size for a small community with Cowboy Jesus hiding up the back.

3. The local soccer stadium. 12-15 year old boys doing match simulation. We saw one goal and heard another.

4. A Dancing Bear. Person in a cute bear costume attracting shoppers in the Mercado Artesanal (central market). Actually, local toddlers more than card carrying tourists.

Home again 5.30. By 6.00 it is dark. Our window is open and the roaring sound of the river below us masks our coughs and wheezes.

Dinner was part of hotel package so we booked a table for 6.30. We had the option of a 3 course meal but neither of us felt we needed it (our appetites on this trip have been very low) so we decided to have a main and dessert. Grilled fish for Ian and Fettuccine for me (first pasta I've had this trip). Dessert was cacao brownie for me and Ian had the Lucuma Canolli Delight. I washed my meal down with a Yalumba Pinot Grigio ... all the way from Australia!