Day Two … hello Quito

What an absolutely fantastic day! That is the first thing I need to say!

Our alarm was set for 5.45 am with the aim to be out of the room by 6.00 am … and being true Phillips we closed the door behind us bang on time, with suitcases in tow. We headed down to take part in a scrumptious buffet breakfast … absolutely delicious … before heading over to the airport. Ian had hoped we would leave the hotel at 6.30 am and I am sure you can all guess what time we walked out the doors!

Our quick walk to the airport via the airbridge had us checking in and dropping off our luggage by 6.40 am and so then we navigated the usual airport routine and were sitting airside just after 7 and then we had to wait until 7.25 to get our gate number! 

Lima airport is really lovely. Beautifully laid out, efficient, amazing statues … and long walks to gates. We were at Gate C16 which took us about 10 minutes to walk to but once there we were boarded onto our plane and heading to Quito on time!

(Ian here looking forward to a wonderful three weeks with my Travel Buddy). We backed away from the gate 15 mins before departure time and were in the air 5 minutes later. A quick flight a little under 2 hours with just enough time for me to watch an Iranian movie (with subtitles of course) and Jacqui to do some mandala colouring in. We were distracted about 15 minutes from arriving at Quito by the Cotopaxi Volcano poking through the clouds. More on that tomorrow as we’re doing a day trip out that way, but for now let me just say that this volcano is active and last erupted in … October 2022! (Hi Mum!)

So on the ground 20 minutes early, straight through Immigration and Security, and out to meet Mauricio our guide for the next few days in Ecuador and Emma our driver, who apart from being the first female driver we have had (vs several female guides) is also Mauricio’s wife.

The schedule originally had us heading into the hotel in central Quito before embarking on our half day City tour. The tour company said that due to our arrival time we would have to miss the visit to the equator, but we diplomatically told them “No way”. What’s the point in visiting Ecuador if you DON’T go to the equator? So from the airport Emma sped us 45 minutes north to Latitude 0 00’ 000”.

But before we get there a little about Quito (population 3M), the world’s second highest capital at 2,800m, a little lower than La Paz, Bolivia. And not only are we at an altitude 400m+ above Australia’s highest mountain, this city ranges in elevation from around 2,900m to 2,200m. So steep! Not just a little bit, but seriously steeeeep! There aren’t many straight roads, just sharply winding roads and apartment, commercial, retail and industrial blocks built on slopes. We’ve seen other cities shaped by their topography but nothing like Quito, the main part of which is only about 6-8km wide nestled in a valley between the Western Andes and the Eastern Andes, but 40-50 km long and growing.

Just before we reached the equator Mauricio gave us options … 1) Visit the large picturesque monument to the equator (which for convenience is about 200m off the equator); OR 2) Visit the museum and experience at the actual equatorial line. Ummm … derrrr. So into the museum car park we pull and are whisked off to meet our specialist English-speaking guide Ronaldo, who also had an English family of four with him. Lots of amazing science, some photos, and the amazing experiment showing the coriolis effect. You know the one – water trough with some leaves in it sitting directly above the equator. Pull the plug and the water and leaves sink straight down, no whirlpool effect. Move the trough 3m to the south, repeat the experiment, and the leaves swirl clockwise as the water drains. Move 3m to the north and the leaves swirl anti-clockwise. Very cool!

Next up the egg-balancing trick. On the equator you can balance a raw egg on the head of a nail. It requires a steady hand but all 6 of us achieved this feat after 1-3 minutes trying – and have a certificate to prove it! Finally the person balancing task. Close your eyes, arms spread wide, walk forward heel to toe and feel the gravitational pull causing you to quickly lose balance. Our youngest and shortest member (11 years) got 6-8 steps forward before wobbling over. With a fused ankle I managed … well … let’s just say not a full step. A fabulous hour that we will long remember.

From there off to a nearby restaurant with views of the Equator Monument (hee hee). And what a meal of Ecuadorian treats we had.  First up delicious empanadas, a crispy one with a rice and beef filling, and two softer ones with green corn and cheese. Then two mains.  Fritada Tipica– which was fried pork, boiled and roasted corn, mixed veg, a potato fritter, avocado and a deep-fried plantain, Llapingacho – which was 3 potato fritters, 2 chorizo sausages, fried egg, mixed veg, beetroot and avocado. Yum yum yum. And to top off the food we had a lovely chat getting to know Mauricio and Emma. A really nice couple who will look after us well (they hold hands walking around the city when they think we’re not looking).

Having been wowed at the Middle of the World we jumped back into the car and Emma drove us to the centre of Quito. We had been given two options for the afternoon … one was a chocolate experience and the other was to tour the old township. We opted for the second choice … I can eat chocolate at home but I cannot see Ecuadorian architecture.

Our drive was fascinating … very hilly and winding roads, so much to see out the windows so I was happily snapping photos as we drove along. The drive was about 45 minutes but there was so much to see so it seemed to fly by. Mauricio and Emma pointed out things to see … the Police Academy, the Army Training Base, various mountain ranges, roadside snack sellers, bridges and tunnels.

For those who don't know Han's full Korean name is Han Il

We arrived into Quito and leaving the car behind began our walking tour. We began by heading to Calle de las Siete Cruces (the street of the seven crosses). This is the old historic part of town and is listed as a UNESCO Cultural World Heritage Site. Listed back in 1978 (the first ever to be declared) it is known for the best preserved and least altered historic centre in Latin America. Located in the heart of the capital it features stunning Spanish colonial architecture including churches, cobblestone streets, plazas and squares and incredible houses dating back to 1534.

We walked the Calle, with Mauricio pointing out the crosses as we came upon them. He talked to us about the history of Quito, highlighting the Plaza Grande, which is also known as Independence Square, which is flanked by the Hotel Grande Plaza (very $$$),  the Palacio Arzobispal (where the Archbishop of Quito lives … complete with a Vatican flag), the Cathedral Metropolitana de Quito, El Sagrario, past the old University of Quito which is now a library (yes of course we went to have a look), the Iglesia La Compania de Jesus, then on to San Francisco Square and finally Iglesia Catolica San Francisco.

The history of these places is amazing … from the number of years it took to build some of the churches, to fires, to earthquakes and volcanic eruptions (the last one was in 2022!). It was wonderful. 

Walking the township 

Hotel Grande Plaza

Palacio Arzobispal

Independence Square

Cathedral Metropolitana de Quito

El Sagrario

The Quito Library

More street photos  ...

Emma and Mauricio 

Iglesia La Compania de Jesus

San Francisco Square

Iglesia Catolica San Francisco 

Views from the Bell tower 

We then walked back to collect the car from where we had left it and headed to our beautiful accommodation.  Mama Cuchara by Art is a boutique hotel and is absolutely gorgeous.  Incredible art throughout the hotel, including an amazing glass door to our room,  a rooftop bar with views across the city. A beautiful location and place to end our day.

And so we end our day ... with some night shots of our hotel and from the rooftop bar.

And a final note ... So there we are, 14,000 km from Melbourne, in a city of 3M people, stepping out of the grand Iglesia de la Compania de Jesus, and there walking up the steps to go inside are Patti and her husband Theo (for our non-library friends Patti is probably one of the OG library legends). The obligatory “Wow”s and hugs and “It’s a small world” and a quick compare of itineraries which shows that they will pretty much be in the Galapagos and Peru at the same time as us! Not expecting to see them again but it was a truly lovely experience.

And so … tomorrow.